Mostar

This year, among other things, I have seen Muslims hacking themselves apart in a show of submission to God, bowed before the long since deceased North Korean president, trudged through a concentration camp and stood next to the remains of the world's worst nuclear disaster. Strangely, none of this has affected me quite as much as visiting Bosnia & Hercegovina, the war torn mess of a country which once lived in relative peace, offered visitors a wealth of activities and hosted the 1984 winter Olympics. My first introduction to the country was pleasant enough as the bus from Dubrovnik snaked it's way alongside the Adriatic coast before heading inland past vineyards, lakes and picturesque villages. Then we arrived in Mostar. Mostar is most famous for it's old bridge across the fast flowing Neretva river where daring young men (I'm not that daring... Or that young actually) plunge 21 metres into the icy water. Since 1968 an annual competition has attracted divers from all over the world to take centre stage and impress the many spectators along the waters edge. That is of course until April the 3rd 1992.

Serbian forces, led by the still at large Ratko Mladic, ruthlessly shelled the town over a period of 3 months resulting in the deaths of Over 1600 people. The bridge was deliberately destroyed in order to crush whatever spirit remained in the town. It worked. The following years saw widespread depression and social decline, to this day qualified engineers, architects and doctors earn a living selling souvenirs made of old bullet and shell casings.

Fortunately for the town, international help was at hand and after a €14 million grant from UNESCO and the world bank, the bridge was rebuilt in astonishing detail and was opened with a huge party in 2004. The town is now in a better position than ever to move on and clear away the last of the shell damaged buildings (of which there are plenty) and look forward to brighter days. That is of course, if they can sort their completely stagnant multi-headed government which showed it's poor performance and divisiveness more clearly, in the historic city of Sarajevo.